Well, I see a few breakers that seem to go to nothing. However for receptacles that have no risk of being inundated with water, it's perfectly fine to use an AFCI-only breaker like that one, and then a GFCI receptacle at the first outlet, feeding the rest of the circuit from its LOAD terminals. That's OK, it can be moved to a bedroom.įor places likely to be wet, dual-mode AFCI+GFCI breakers are ideal, so they confer GFCI protection to the wiring as well as the appliances. I assume the choice of CAFCI for a jacuzzi was made by the same mouth-breather who specced all those alien breakers. The latter provides a weak GFCI protection - too weak for human safety.
#Cutler hammer 150 amp panel series#
A CAFCI means it looks for two types of arc faults: series (bad connection) and shorting (wire sparking to ground). You have one CAFCI (Combination Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor) breaker in there right now. You're looking at $4.50 a breaker, unless you get up into AFCI or GFCI. Eaton keeps prices low, which is why there are no classified options. Keep in mind not every Electrical Supply is actually an Eaton dealer.Īll that said, the only breaker type listed or classified for your panel is Eaton Type BR (which is cross-listed Type C). I just stopped buying at Home Depot after finding they are too expensive on most things. Price-check both local big-box stores and 2-3 local Electrical Supply Houses big-box usually tries to be lowest on endcap high-mover items like 14/2 cable, but on most other things, a good electrical supply is the best price. Most people buying from Amazon don't even realize they're buying from the Amazon Marketplace flea market, which is the same quality tier as eBay.įurther, mail order generally for electrical equipment is a terrible idea, because equipment is generally of low cost and high weight, and that means shipping is prohibitive - and yeah, you pay for shipping one way or the other. Amazon is inundated by third-party sellers, who sell counterfeits or straight junk off Alibaba.
The right breakers for your panelĪbsolutely nothing on Amazon is the right breaker for your panel. Challenger was swept up in the scandal with FPE and Zinsco breaker safety, but unlike them, that only affected Challenger breakers Challenger panels are safe as houses if you change the breakers to C/BR. However if they are Challenger or Westinghouse, into the trash they go. If they're BRyant or Cutler-Hammer, they are fine. (I don't like using factory hole-filler kits because I find them flimsy).Ī few breakers in there are so old that they can't be identified by front markings. Fill the hole with any breaker painted red. Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if a couple of your bus stabs are burned, because that's what happens. I wrote that last paragraph to explain why that's a lie. There's a myth, believed by some handymen, that any 1" breaker is compatible with any other. None of those are UL-classified for this panel. Which means you'll have a lot of Siemens/Murray QP, and Square D HOMeline breakers to sell on Craigslist. Second, anything Eaton does in their CH line, they can also do in their BR line, because BR breakers are wider they can just put CH guts in BR bodies.Įaton is also a specialist in making UL-Classified breakers for competitor panels these require a tortuous UL-approval process to prove compatibility with the shape of the bus stabs on competitor panels, and Cutler Hammer mastered that to the satisfaction of UL, with their CL line, which is listed for several competitor panels. First, BR breakers are better supported, like their line of remote-control breakers nobody else has like the BRRP and BRRSP (for BR panels) and nothing for CH.
I am a CH fanboy, but I will concede a couple of advantages to BR. Indeed, your correct BR breakers are UL cross-listed type C for Challenger. This kind of panel lineage is normal your panel actually harkens back to Westinghouse, Challenger, Bryant (hence BR), Cutler Hammer and now Eaton. The only real difference is Eaton's logo is cooler. It's the same model numbers, same tooling, same factories, same everything. Eaton just chose to acquire Cutler-Hammer, instead of develop their own line of electrical equipment from scratch with zero experience and blundering into every possible mistake. Mergers & acquisitions are normal in that business. This looks like a Cutler Hammer "BR" 40-space panel that is full. Alien breakers require immediate attention!.Eaton has owned Cutler Hammer since 1978.
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